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Saturday, August 07, 2004

Jim.

Now's as good a time as any to talk about Jim a little bit.

I first met him when I was sitting on the deck of the M/V Columbia, watching the coastline go by. He sat down next to me and said, "oh, so you're a rider, too?" I couldn't parse his New Zealand accent at first, so I wasn't sure if he'd said "rider" or "writer" -- and either would make sense, as I was wearing my Kilimanjaro jacket and carrying around my writing binder -- but the answer was the same either way.

We small-talked for a few minutes: where are you from? Where are you going? What do you ride? Oh, how do you like that bike? It was immediately apparant that Jim was a great storyteller. Whereas my answers were things like "oh, I'm a software programmer in Silicon Valley", his involved people and places and little vignettes. I learned that he was taking the ferry down to Bellingham, WA to begin an open-ended motorcycle trip around the Lower 48. "My wife and I used to travel a lot; we'd have amazing adventures," Jim told me multiple times. "We were fantasically, romantically, in love." He talked about Mary often; eventually I learned that she'd passed away from cancer a few years ago.

"My friends think I'm crazy, to do this motorcycle ride," Jim continued. "But I miss the adventure. I miss Mary. So I learned to ride a motorcycle -- there aren't many ways for a single 60-year-old man to find adventure. Does that make sense?" He often ended his thoughts with questions.

Normally, I'm not a very socially extroverted person, but I found myself talking to Jim quite a bit over the four-day ferry trip. He was very easy to talk to, and I thoroughly enjoyed the little stories. We had breakfast together one morning, just the two of us, and he told me about oil drilling in Alaska and his role in it. We both got edgy when the waitress was late in bringing our coffee, and tended to ask for refills at the same time. I only use one cream in my coffee, though; Jim was a cream fiend. Little cup of half-and-half after little cup went into that coffee, until it was overflowing into his saucer. No wonder he drank three or four cups; I don't think there was really any coffee left in the drink anymore.

Tony, Stephanie, and I had dinner with Jim a couple of other times, and often met for after-dinner drinks and conversation with another couple, Nom and Cindy. Our group played cards in the ferry cocktail lounge, told stories, and listened to more talented shipmates play the acoustic guitar . Jim kept a journal during his trip, and his niece Rachel sent me a copy after his death. This last night on the ferry, Jim had written:

"I met my motorcycle compatriots Carolyn, Stephanie and Tony for a final evening buffet dinner -- I even indulged in a little desert. We talked a lot from everything about computer history through life in San Francisco to spirituality. We laughed a lot and some of the talk was meaningful. I then went up on deck, took a few pictures and enjoyed the scenery before Cindy and Nom met the four of us later round a table. During the time round the table, the Bridge called out on the PA that Fireworks could be seen; it was “Canada Day.” We watched while a little town in the distance fired its shells – quite a reasonable display and then we went back to our conversations round the table. We took mutual pictures, exchanged addresses and promised we would see each other for our final farewell in the morning. Before bed I watched alone until we had past Texicana Island where Mary and I had our octopus diving trip. Wonderful memories! I then had a shower and went to bed."

Two weeks after we arrived back in the Bay Area, Jim called me. He was visiting Rachel in Berkeley, and would be passing through our area the next day. Could he drop in and say hello? Coincidentally, Peter and I were hosting a BBQ that next day, for a friend's birthday, so I told Jim to come by and crash the party. I called Tony and Stephanie to invite them as well.

The BBQ was fun: a small group of people, some motorcyclists, some not. Jim fit in well; he mingled with all of us twenty- and thirty-something Silicon Valley tech nerds, telling more stories and meeting new friends. He drank Diet Coke and let us all sit on his K1200LT. He was very proud of its speaker system, and made all of us take turns sitting on the bike as he turned up whatever CD was in the changer at the time. My friend Alan, the birthday boy, is a musician, and he gave Jim a copy of his latest CD; Jim happily put it in his bag with his other music. I hope he got a chance to listen to it.

At one point, Jim and I were alone out by his bike, and he told me that he'd overpacked. He had, too -- he had an entire bag full of "extra" clothes that, by his own admission, he wasn't wearing. I offered to hang on to them for him and mail them back to his Anchorage address.

The little pile of clothes still sits in my garage -- I hadn't yet found a big enough box to mail them in. I'll probably bring it to Rachel when I meet her; she's a motorcyclist too, and can hopefully use some of the gear. It's that pile of clothes that makes me saddest: a Campmor fleece vest, a blue plaid shirt. Things Jim bought to be comfortable. Things to wear, to be warm or cool; human things. I can picture him shopping for the trip and picking out that fleece vest; deciding between it and one of a different color.

I only knew Jim for a month, but our time on the ferry was so packed, so time-intensive, that it seems longer. I have friends that I've known for years that might use cream in their coffee, or they might not -- I wouldn't have the foggiest idea. Jim really came into our lives for a reason. He was kind, enthusiastic, and sincere. He was a wonderful storyteller and enjoyed hearing others' stories. He was a good friend, and a true inspiration.

Godspeed, Jim. May heaven bring you Mary, twisty roads, and an endless supply of coffee and cream.

Wednesday, August 04, 2004

Jim, Part 1


Motorcyclist dies in wreck

Staff Report

Tuesday, August 3, 2004

HAYDEN — A Craig teenager returning home from a church camp in a sport-utility vehicle crossed the centerline of U.S. Highway 40 and struck a motorcycle head-on Monday, the State Patrol reported.

The driver of the motorcycle, James Cameron, 61, of Anchorage, Alaska, was pronounced dead at the scene, about seven miles west of Hayden.

Cameron's 2002 BMW motorcycle collided with a 2000 Dodge Durango driven by Samuel Billig, 18, of Craig. The accident occurred at about 2:48 p.m., said State Patrol Cpl. Brian Bagley, who is investigating the accident.

Billig has been charged with careless driving causing death. He was issued a summons to appear in court in Routt County, Bagley said.

The preliminary investigation indicates that Billig fell asleep at the wheel. Instead of rounding a curve, Billig, who was headed west, drifted into the eastbound lane, Bagley said.

"He had been at some type of church camp -- or something to that effect -- down in the Stagecoach area for some days and was driving back," Bagley said.

The impact folded the motorcycle's frame in half and Cameron's helmet came off in the collision, the trooper said. There were numerous witnesses to the accident.

Investigators don't know Cameron's destination, but he appeared to be traveling. He had started this leg of his journey in Salt Lake City earlier on Monday.

The airbags in the Durango went off. Both occupants were wearing seatbelts. An unidentified 16-year-old passenger in the Durango suffered minor injuries. Billig's parents came to the scene and took him to The Memorial Hospital with "moderate injuries," Bagley wrote in his report.

Bagley's investigation will take several days to complete. He has not yet tried to determine the speeds of each vehicle upon impact, but said excessive speed doesn't appear to be a factor.

Alcohol did not appear to be a factor in the accident, Bagley said.

RIP, Jim.

(Edit 2/13/08: I changed the title of this post in an attempt to curtail the massive amounts of comment spam that it attracted. Hopefully it won't break anyone's TrackBack links.)

Tuesday, July 27, 2004

More pictures.

All of the Alaska trip pictures are now online. Sadly, they're not captioned -- someday Peter and I will get around to adding that functionality to our photo script -- so if you have any questions about any of 'em, email me or post a comment here, and I'll eventually get around to answering.

Speaking of which -- if you're reading this, I probably owe you email. I'm so far behind in my email that I'm starting to copy and paste the phrase "sorry it's taken me so long to get back to you". So, yeah. It's nothing personal. ;)

Monday, July 12, 2004

A "welcome back" friend

Today was my first day back at work. Someone left this little guy on my
monitor for me. Hee!photo_251.jpg

Friday, July 09, 2004

So you want to ride to Alaska

There won't be "normal" write-ups of the Alaska trip, since I'm trying to sell multiple articles about it to various magazines.

Instead, I'm trying to put together a sort of FAQ about motorcycling to Alaska: pros and cons of the gear I took, maps of the roads, etc.

http://www.bluepoof.com/motorcycles/trips/alaska

Obviously work-in-progress -- let me know if there's something you'd like to see there. :)

Tuesday, July 06, 2004

More on the fires

OK, so this isn't directly related to riding, but I thought it was interesting. I've been following the BC/Yukon/AK forest fires since we rode through the area, and, lemme tell you, it's getting sort of crazy up there.

Here are a couple of pretty amazing images:

Hazard Mapping System Fire and Smoke Product from the NOAA Satellites and Information website: "Analysis for day 7/5/2004 last updated at 7/6/2004 8:34:25 GMT. Fires are in red. Fire size has been increased so fires are visible in this large view. Smoke, when detected by the analyst, is in gray."

NOAA's Satellite Services Division's Fire Detection Program

Sunday, July 04, 2004

Photo album uploaded

I've created a photo album here on Typepad for 100 "overview" pictures from the trip. It doesn't have the full-sized images, but there are captions, so it's a start. :) Enjoy!

Saturday, July 03, 2004

Home again!

I've been home for about a half-hour now. I've:
- brought everything inside and opened one saddlebag just enough to get out the laptop
- pushed the bike into the garage
- changed clothes
- started a beer
- pet the cats
- sorted the mail
- wondered why the house reeks of cat litter

I may have to wait for Peter to come home before figuring out that last one. ;-)

Sorry about the lack of updates since Haines -- we didn't have any cell coverage on the ferry, and then my hiptop died about 15 minutes after finally getting cell coverage last night in Grant's Pass, Oregon. Dunno what's wrong with it; it just ain't holding a charge. Neither is my motorcycle battery. I think I may be a vortex of magnetic energy, or something.

At any rate.

More later, naturally -- now it's time to pet the cats more (I'm not surprised that Peter's cats immediately ran to see me when I came in, and my cats couldn't be bothered to stand up or even, really, open their eyes) and maybe spray the top layer of bugs off the SVS.

Trip total: 5459.3 miles

Sunday, June 27, 2004

Haines, AK

We've descended upon the Haines Public Library, which has (extremely limited) internet access. We got the stinkeye when we asked if we could bring in our own laptops, so I can't upload any new pictures. This is a bummer, since I took some really amazing ones yesterday.

Yesterday was a strange day, riding-wise. We started the day in Tok, which was grey and hazy due to forest fires. We were hoping that the Kluane area would have cleared up during the past week, but instead, it was worse. You couldn't tell that there were mountains right in front of you: just a weird, thick, grey haze. It smelled like campfire, and when Iexhaled sharply, I could taste the smoke.

The haze continued down to Haines Junction, YT -- about 290 miles southeast. We stopped in Haines Junction for ice cream and to have a sort of powwow -- would we stay for the night or continue on to Haines? I'd heard that the Haines Highway is absolutely amazing, and it didn't make me happy to think that I'd miss out on scenery due to the haze. The lady at the Haines Junction visitor center showed us a map of the fires -- there were no new ones between Haines Junction and Haines. The wind, however, was blowing the smoke in a southeasterly direction. We decided to outrun the wind and smoke and make the final leg of our journey in Alaska last night.

It was, absolutely, the best decision we've made on the entire trip.

The haze cleared up after about 20 miles, and to say that the Haines Highway is amazing is an understatement. I rode in the back, so that my landscape pictures would have Tony and Steph in them ("mountains + people" is always more interesting than "mountains"), and I got some really good ones. I grumble at the Haines Library people who won't let me upload them. Grumble, I say! Grumble!

The whole highway seemed staged. We'd be riding along some mountain or glacier, turn a corner, and bam! there'd be another mountain or glacier even more beautiful than the previous one. One time, we rounded a corner to see a large field -- I saw a brown lump in the field that I thought was a moose, so I stopped the bike. As I was slowing down, the back half of the moose got up and started walking away...it was a mama grizzly bear with two cubs. They were roughly a football field's length away -- maybe a little further -- and seemed pretty uninterested in us, so we got some great pictures of the cubs playing and following their mom across the field.

Haines is also home to the Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve, so we've seen a few of those, too. They're harder to photograph, obviously, but I think Tony's been trying.

Today, we continue to bum around Haines -- we've been walking around and enjoying the town and the sights. The ferry leaves Haines tomorrow evening, so we'll start loading the bikes on in the afternoon. I'm really excited about the ferry trip -- three days of good scenery, good wildlife watching, and sitting around on the deck of a ship. :)

See you Friday, back in the Lower 48.

Thursday, June 24, 2004

Denali by air

Yesterday was our Planes, Trains, and Automobiles day -- we took the Alaska Railroad down to Denali, and then went flightseeing around Mt. McKinley with Denali Air.

I don't have a lot of time to write, so I'll talk about the train later, but the flightseeing was really amazing. It was a nice day, so we had good views of the glaciers and smaller mountains. Our plane went up to about 12,000 feet, so there was still a lot of McKinley above us (it's 20,320 feet tall), but what we saw was really freakin' cool. We couldn't get close enough to look for climbers -- too windy -- which was too bad, since I really had zero sense of scale or size. At one point while we were approaching the mountain, it started looming in the distance, and the pilot said we were still about 45 miles away. That there's one big mountain.

On the return trip, we passed a nearby Big Tall Hill with two rocks on it; they looked about basketball sized from where we were, but the pilot said they'd been deposited there by a glacier and were about the size of a two-story house. So, um, there ya go.

Steph and I have been made fun of mercilessly, as we both dozed off on the flight. :) We couldn't help it! It was comfy, we were warm and sitting in the sun, we were in a patch of smooth wind....*shrugs*

I wouldn't recommend the flightseeing to anyone who may get airsick easily -- there were definitely moments of roller-coaster drops and climbs -- but overall, it was smooth and a ton of fun. Our pilot was really good: funny, informative, and we found out later that he's the actual owner of Denali Air.

It's a nice day today, too, so hopefully we'll see Mt. McKinley on our ride down to Anchorage. Steph is off shipping stuff home at the post office -- we used up all of Peter's extra luggage space already, the poor guy -- and then we'll start heading south.